A little bit of England!

WHEN we arrived here in Crete nearly ten years ago, it was almost impossible to buy many of the creature comforts that we could easily pick up in our UK supermarkets. We are not talking shopping trollies of food, but the few items that we miss from the UK.

  Gradually over the years as more and more ex-Pats have come to the island that changed a little. Take brown sauce as an example. You can go into any Greek supermarket and the range of tomato sauce products is vast but no brown sauce (vital for fried eggs or bacon sandwiches). It was impossible also to obtain castor sugar and golden syrup, not everyday requirements, but sometimes essential, after all you cannot make a golden sponge with honey instead of syrup! We won't talk about Marmite of course.

  Well, gradually over the years the demand on friends and family coming to the island has gradually diminished, now, virtually everything is possible, thanks to the opening of various English shops on the island.

  The first for us was the English Warehouse in Agios Nikoloaus, a trip of 40 minutes each way. Run by an English lady and her Greek husband, it really came into its own around Christmas with top cheeses, frozen goods and even cards and crackers.

  This year another shop has opened about 10 minutes away, at Stalis. Delightful Vicky Light  and her Greek boyfriend Nondas run this shop, small but packed with more than 300 ambient lines, plus an ever expanding frozen goods, all those essentials much needed. We also know of at least one other English shop, to the east at Chania, too far for us of course. Stalis is the shop by choice, they would even deliver is needed, we get an update of their range of goods, as well as their frozen produce list. They deserve every success for their enterprise, it took a great deal of planning and hard work, which from our view is paying dividends.
  Their first Christmas was a surprise to them, they had nothing to judge the situation by, but learned a great deal, making sure that planning for the big week would be done earlier next time. Their customers of course realise the value of such a shop, and together with personal service are sure to return time after time. 
  Now both local (to us) shops have increased their ranges, importing direct from the UK a wider and wider range of frozen foods. We love Greek food, cooked oiur way also, but there are also little treats that make life that little more special.
  A toasted tea-cake for example in the afternoon. Real English pork pies with that crisply outside housing a delightful pork and jelly inside, nothing in Greece can offer that, although there have been some who have tried  without real success.
  Of course the shops really are for those living here, but on the influx of tourists they get to hear of the shops and load up with items for self catering, which is certainly better than the fully inclusive hotels that ties visitors to their hotels - but that's another story.

Eastern Crete - just right for birthday trip

SITIA, eastern Crete has a charm of it's very own. It has been two years since going to the town, but a birthday trip was duly planned, but with weather in the first three days of the week resulting in storms and torrential rain the signs were not good.

   The Hotel Elysee had been booked, complete with sea view, so when the day of travel arrived and it was bright sunshine, the whole mood of the trip changed. It  was the first time at the hotel, where management and staff could not have been friendlier. Our double room was large and well appointed. Clean and comfortable were obvious keywords for the hotel, and they maintained these standards.

  On our first experience was a trip to the well appointed Museum, filled with Minoan history, small, but as they say, perfectly formed, and well presented.with history

  The actual birthday dawned, again with bright sunshine, and even people were actually swimming in the sea, December remember!! We travelled around the area, including Zakros and Zakros Beach, so much history and natural beauty to be seen. We even gatecrashed a birthday party in the evening held for a local family, including live music - a perfect end to our eastern trip

Loukoumades (Greek donuts) for all

THE last weekend of November is the traditional time for the serving of Loukoumades, and our senior citizen group (KAPI) also serves them,, virtually to anybody who calls into their building - and there are many of course. 

  Loukoumades are Greek doughnuts which have a round, golden appearance. Made using flour and salt, and dressed with honey syrup and cinnamon, they are very popular in Greek cooking. The dessert first originated in Ancient Greece, where they were called "honey tokens" and were awarded to winning Olympic athletes.The pastry was first recorded in writing by the poet Callimachus, making it one of the oldest recorded desserts in Greek history.

  The Greek pastry is made by first combining flour and salt. Yeast is then dissolved in warm water and a pit is made in the center of the flour mixture where it is poured until the dough is malleable and sticky. The dough is left to rest and, once it has doubled in size, it is ready to be fried in hot oil in a deep fryer. 
  To achieve the round shape, a small amount of dough is placed into the palm of a hand and is molded into a small ball before it is placed in the oil. This process is continued until the entire dough mixture is used; when the pastry balls float to the top of the oil and appear golden in color, they are ready to dress with syrup
  While there are variations in recipes, loukoumades are generally served with honey syrup and cinnamon. To make the honey syrup, water, honey, and sugar are combined and brought to a boil. The syrup is then poured over the loukoumades and cinnamon is sprinkled on top. Loukoumades are usually served warm.


 

Autumn - a time to reflect

AUTUMN is Crete has been days of warm sun, lazy days in the local cafe drinking coffee and generally watching the world go by.

  Tourists have virtually disappeared from the island and our village, Pano Hersonissos has entered a new time-zone. All the tavernas, bar one, have closed, leaving the locals, and us to use the kafeneions. These are always well supported through the whole year, and in recent sunshine a pefect setting. 

  The kafeneions prepare and sell traditional food, and it's very good value. The first rains, albeit little, have started, but not enough to discourage a walk out. On Sundays one enterprising trader from Kastelli, about eight miles away, comes to the village his van laden with plants and small shrubs. He has done a great trade in the village and will be here until the heavy rains come. His family own a garden centre and his enterprise has been good for him.

  One of the tavernas on the edge of the village square has taken a big step forward. During the years that we have been here we have noticed that they really have no trade to speak of. For whatever reason they have embarked on a major change. The place has been re-designed, with a fresh decor, so we shall watch this one carefully over the coming months.

  Soon most locals will be out checking their olive trees, looking for a good harvest. A recent newspaper article in England listed one oil from chania, as one of the very best. When we checked, the selling price was 39 euros for half a litre!!!! It had to be very very special for that. We are more than happy with the oil we have thank you. Current value if you have to buy it locally is around two euros a litre, we certainly have no complaints from our local suppliers.

Psst - wanna buy a fake bargain?

WE know the economy here is Greece is in a parlous state and people will do what they can to make money, but we came across a new one today.

  Shopping in Hersonissos at the international company Lidl, as we loaded up our purchases, a very suspicious man edged up to our car.

   He said nothing at first, but then, offered a brand new ""Apple iPhone""  It's genuine he said when he realised we were English. It only 100 euro today special offer. First of all it could not have been genuine for that money, or secondly it was stolen. It could even been the kind they have in phone shops - the dummy ones that look the part for sales but actually have nothing inside the case. Did it come with a charger, did it work??

 We could not believe that he thought that anyone would even give it a fraction of their time to buying such a fake..Are there really people in this day and age who would fall for it - we certainly hope not.

It's a blooming good night!!

LAST year we were lucky in our village of Pano Hersonissos, to have the traditional Carnation Night revived. The area is well know for it's flowers and you will find row upon row of growing sheds around the area.

  So it was nice that, after it had been missing from the village for more than 10 years, it was brought back. Even better it was continued here again. It seemed that the whole village was out, despite there being two very big local wedding parties taking place, as well as the very important Greek football match Olympiacos v. Panathaniacos (Olympiacos won 1-0) being shown on television. This meant that the festivities started later, but that is nothing new in Greece, although it was obvious fromn many faces which football team they supported!!
  Everybody was having a good time, including the village dogs who were out in force. They are all very gentle and were all well fed by the end of the evening.
  Wine was free of charge, and a non-profit price on all other drinkls and there were thousands of soulaki (meat on sticks) being cooked to feed the revellers. Live music pushed the evening along, and it was not long before the traditional dancing took place, all into the very early hours of the morning. Towards the end of the night, thousands of carnation blooms were handed round or thrown into the area where the dancers were. Another night to remember.

When Oxi really did mean "NO"

OXI Day (pronounced oshy and sometimes spelt as 'Okhi Day' or 'Ochi Day') is celebrated every year in Crete and the rest of Greece on October 28th. It is a public holiday and it is commemorated with military, student and union marches and parades. The Greek flag flies freely on almost every building.
   Oxi day commemorates the very firm "No! (Oxi!) of the Greek government to the capitulation ultimatum of Mussolini in World War II.

  In October 1940, Europe was being oppressed by Nazi Germany. Poland, the Low Countries and France had already fallen and Britain was fighting the Axis powers of Germany and Italy alone.

At that time the Italian dictator, Benito Mussolini, had massed an Italian army in occupied Albania directed at Greece. In the early hours of October 28, 1940 Mussolini issued an ultimatum to the Greek leader Ioannis Metaxas to surrender, in effect, by allowing Italian troops to occupy Greece.

  Greece's brave and adamant reply of Oxi! (No!), to Mussolini's capitulation ultimatum echoed throughout the world and gave much needed support to Britain and the forces of freedom. Metaxas' reply marked the beginning of participation of Greece in World War II

 We always go, if only to meet friends in the main town, and today was no exception. The children who take part in the parade maerch with passion, especially the very young, after a church service first.

Tough times

THE end of the tourist season is almost here on the island, and businesses will be assessing what has been a very tough season for many.
  In our village many did not even manage to finish the season, while others report a better than expected season. Already some have actually closed down for the season, one taverna is always the last to open, but the first to close. Our friends Nico and Anna run Margo
taverna, which is certainly the prettiest in the village, and right to the end have enjoyed a good summer, however, one taverna which returned to Greek ownership this season actually closed down in the middle of the season - they simply could not attract business, some nights only serving two or three customers  while employing more than that in staff.
  Elsewhere the picture has been much the same, what needs to be addressed during the winter months is what is to be done for 2014. It will take a brave person to forecast that, but certainly many will fall.

Brilliant Balos - Great Gramvousa

OUR final excursion of the year has been for three days with our senior citizen group KAPI, to the western tip of the island to visit the former pirate outpost of Gramvousa and the fantastic lagoon of Balos, and the efforts was worth it. We were based in Chania for two nights at the Hotel Kriti. Been here before and very good value, only 300 meters from the main town.
  There was time on the first and second nights to explore the town and have a meal. One shock was the small local hotel by the harbour we had been to before has now changed hands and upped all their prices for the winter, so that has been crossed off our list.
  However the main reason for the trip was the island of Gramvousa.  Departing from the port of Kissamos and travelling for approximately 55 minutes in the gulf, first you see a vast cave, that is believed to have been the ancient shipyard - Tarsanas. It is found near the Roman city of Agnion, thought to be the god Apollo (today Ag. Sostis).
   At the end of the Gulf there is an impressive geological phenomenon where, as a result of the passage of time, the western part of the island is raised, while the eastern part is sunk.
  This phenomenon was created by catastrophic earthquakes that took place in 66 BC and 365 BC. These earthquakes, caused by the movement of the lithospheric plates of Africa, caused the abrupt elevation of Crete from 6m to 9m above sea level. This ancient sea level can still be seen today as a black trace along the rocky coast. According to scientific estimates, this geographical phenomenon is still continuing today, but at a much slower rate.
   During the voyage across the gulf passengers often come across marine turtles (Caretta Caretta), the Mediterranean seal (Monachus Monachus) and dolphins of the region, no such luck for us however.
   We were impressed with the island, although declined the long haul up to the very top to explore the castle fortress. Sneaked a few pictures from another source so we could see what was missed.. However Balos was something else, little rock pools from which you could extract sea-salt before the main lagoon. Walking knee deep it was a great experience.

A very Happy Birthday

Our Romanian neighbours were celebrating the first birthday of their son Dimitri, and insisted that we went along to the celebrations. So, along with family and family we went to the setting, in the local stables, in in keeping with their culture there was a great deal of food, lots to drink and of course music and dancing.
  We had met many of those there previously and felt at home, even with some language difficulties. The setting was excellent for the families with children as the stables have a play area as well of horses  of various shapes and sizes, of course, as well as other animals.
  It was interesting to see their customs, a little different from a typical English party, but tradition dictated a birthdaycake, complete with fireworks instead of the more traditional candles!!

Inspired Beatrix Potter

HAVING lived and worked in the Lake Distriuct prior to departibng for Crete, it is a pleasure to hear a move that saves a special place.

  An estate on the shores of Derwentwater which inspired Beatrix Potter to write The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin has been given Grade II listed status.

  Lingholm, built in the 1870s, was designed by architect Alfred Waterhouse

  The Department of Culture, Media and Sport said the listing would preserve the home, Lingholm, at Portinscale, near Keswick.
  The home and surrounding area are said to have inspired some of the author’s most famous works, including The Tales of Peter Rabbit, Mrs Tiggywinkle and Benjamin Bunny.
  The woodland nearby and its population of red squirrels is also recognised as an influence behind The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin, and Potter was known to be a dedicated conservationist who spent much of her life trying to preserve the area.
  The listing means the home is recognised as “being of special architectural or historic interest” and protected against “unauthorised demolition, alteration or extension”.

Modest decline in foreclosures

A STUDY carried out by the Greek Confederation of Professionals, Craftsmen and Merchants finds €50bn bank recapitalisation is likely to result in only a modest decline in the rate of closures.
  Some 40,000 small businesses across the country are likely to close in the second half of 2013 at a cost of up to 90,000 jobs, despite a major bank rescue program implemented before the summer, a study published this week warned.
  The survey of 1,200 small businesses conducted between found that the €50bn bank recapitalisation was likely to result in only a modest decline in the rate of closures, from an estimated 55,000 in the first half of the year.
  The idea behind the recapitalisation program, part of the country's second international bailout deal, was to pump cash into the real economy.
  The survey also found that some 65.7% of small businesses said t hey had reduced hours or salaries for staff so far this year, while 75.4% described their situation as being worse than in 2012. Source: AP,

Ladies' Night & Killer Heels!

IT IS a well known fact - the Greeks like to party. In the month of August, traditionally the holiday season they really go to town. In our village it seems that there is something happening every week

Last night was the traditional Ladies" Night, when usually they all get together, plan what they will offer in the way of food and prepare and serve it - all for free.

  In the current situation it was no surprise that they asked this year for a €5 donation, and when you see the quantity of food handed out there could be fee objections. The difference it was all prepared in advance and we got for our money - wait for it: fava, giant beans in sauce, dolmadias, salad, pork in sauce, hondros with snails and if that was not enough pork and potato from the oven. Local wine was just €3 a bottle and soft drinks a matter of cents.

Of course there was music, and dancing, of course everybody dressed up and that's when we spotted many killer heels, even on the dance floor! The music went on until at least 4.00 am, we retired a little earlier.

  Not seen before the traditional lamb skin instrument, sounded like a bagpipe, very interesting. 

A musical instrument that you meet only rarely nowadays is the bagpipe - the askomantoura.
The bagpipe, a member of the woodwind family, consists of three main parts: the mouthpiece, the bag and the pipe. The pipe is the most complicated part and consists of a wooden socket with two reeds and the melody pipe.
For the mouthpiece or the blowpipe (fouskotari) a hollowed out bone is generally used, as it is considerably stronger than wood.
The bag (askos) is made out of the skin of a kid or a lamb. An animal of approximately 7 kilos is preferred, as it gives the best size of the bag. The hairs are cut to the length of ½ cm to prevent the bag from bursting. The hairs will also catch the moisture when you blow, and thus prevent the wooden parts from being destroyed. Afterwards the holes from three of the legs are sewn up, while the hole from the throat and the fourth leg remain open for the wooden socket and the mouthpiece. Then the reverse side is turned out.
The wooden socket, cut out of oleander or maple, is hollowed out in order to make room for the two reeds (kalami). Any leaks that may occur are sealed with beeswax.
The fingerholes in the reeds are made by glowing pieces of wood in order to make them completely round.

A genuine Kri Kri family

ANY day out with our senior group KAPI usually means a short visit to a church ior monastery, but this week was a little different, we were actually able to see Kri Kri. Kri-Kri is the common name of the Cretan feral goat (Capra aegagrus ssp. cretica) which is the largest wild mammal on the island. Its grandeur, its bravery, its ability to observe without being noticed, its speed and its impressive horns are the features that were loved by the locals and made it a symbol of Crete and the untamed Cretan spirit.

 It lives mainly on the White Mountains and its local name is "Agrimi" (GR: Αγρίμι = the wild one) for the male and "Sanada" (GR: Σανάδα) for the female. Recent years, young kri-kris have approached the old village of Samaria, where they are fed by the park rangers and can be seen by the visitors. Kri-kris and goats are close genetically, as the hybridization that exists between them show. Kri-kri's size however is a good deal larger than that of a goat. The young kid was skittish of course, but was lured to the fence with some grass for a photo chance.

We saw them in a taverna high up in the hills during a  day trip to the west of the island, when the staff pointed them out to us, as they are rather special. They had a whole family in a perfect setting. We had seen images of them and even stuffed ones in the natural history museum, but it was nice to see them up close and personal.

  Our day out included the village of Vrisses, where they sell their famous yoghurt and then to Georgeopoulis, famous for their traditional bread. Needless to say we came home with bags of both, whoever the two coachload of KAPI members actually cleared the bakery out, which was some going as they produce over 1,000 loaves every day.  Some of the locals had to make do with a wait, only 15 minutes to get to the next batch.

Listen, enjoy - let's eat!

THERE is always something to enjoy here on the island, Tonight it was another music night, this time with our senior citizens organisation KAPI. Held at their headquarters in Hersonissos, the choir came up with some new material under the direction of their new choir master.
  They had hardly finished when there was a big rush (as usual for the food) Members had been asked to bring dishes along to add that already, and there was a great deal.
It ranged from moussaka to souvlaki, and a whole range of other special dishes, Despite some filling plates to overflowing there was enough to feed all, there was also a great range of drinks, and then it was down to the dancing until late at night.

Great cast - great song

The 10th anniversary concert for Les Miserables. They brought 17 Valjean stars from around the world to end the concert - something really special. Copy and paste in browser to listen.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpDbvlAI_A0&feature=share

Hitting the right notes

THERE is one thing about living in a traditional Crete village - there is always something of interest happening.
  During the summer months in particular there are a variety of events, from cultural to things for the children, and first up 
it was an open air concert by the local Cultural Choir. Staged in the small platia behind the old church, chairs were laid out and the well rehearsed choir performed for over an hour. They featured popular Greek music mainly and had the local audience thrilled by their good voices.
  There are a great number of events to attend, all free, during the summer months. The local council produce a small brochure listing all the upcoming events. We shall have a translation done to make sure we will not miss out during the summer.

Another trip & More islands!

OUR KAPI organisation came up with another treat, a four-day trip to Syros and Tinos for complete contrast.
  The trip meant a early hours arrival after the ferry to the first island. Hotel  was situated right on the sea-front, and within walking distance of the main town.
  This is the island where Greek tradition and western influence come to a harmonious marriage. Ermoúpoli (meaning “the city of Hermes”) is the island’s capital town and has been the first important trade and industrial centre of the country in the 19th century.
  Evidence of this glorious past can be seen on public buildings (the City Hall, the Customs Office, “Apollo” theatre), on the neoclassical houses and at the beautiful squares. Due to its economic activity, Ermoúpoli has been called “Manchester of Greece” and the history of its years of blossom is exhibited in the Industrial Museum.
  The Orthodox community has contributed some outstanding religious monuments to the architecture of Ermoúpoli such as the churches of Metamórphossi tou Sotíros (Transfiguration of Jesus Christ), St Nicolas the Rich (Áyios Nikólaos Ploússios), Dormition of the Mother of God (Koímissis tis Theotókou)
  The medieval quarter of the Roman Catholic community and the fortress-like St George’s cathedral are on St George hill, also named Áno Sýros (meaning upper Sýros). Go up the stairs to the top of the hill and through the narrow streets, by the traditional whitewashed houses, the archways and the open spaces with a breathtaking view of the island.
  This was not for anyone other than fully fit - all steps, no roads and all very narrow!! It’s murder for the postman - no names and deliveries must be a complete nightware.
  Sýros is well-known for its gastronomic peculiarities. Halva pie (a pie made of thyme honey and roasted almonds), loukoúmi (a delight made of water, starch and sugar), “loosa” ham, fennel sausages and the San Mihalis spicy cheese (appellation d'origine contrôlée/”protected designation of origin") will no doubt satisfy even the most demanding taste buds. We also biougght excellent sea salt, sun-dried tomatoes and capers for about a third of the price here in Crete.
  We also had a one day ferry trip to Tinos, for a complete change. During the summer months and on the weekends, the town is throbbing with activity, primarily due to Greek visitors here to pay homage to the Holy Virgin at the famous Church of the Panagia. Unfortunately for many of them, they do not have the opportunity to visit the rest of the island, as most visitors for the Church stay only a few hours or for only one night.

  The final day was a late departure, so it was a tour of the island, and later for us a train trip around the city. Eventually it was off to the ferry, arriving from Athens. Hundreds surged forward and we found dozens of people stretched out over the seats, when there were no chairs to sit in. We spoke to one man saying one ticket-one chair, he grunted, swore, but moved for us. Others did not have the nerve and finished up sitting on the floor!!

Do it yourself - saves time

THERE are some people in life you can rely on, others simply promise but fail to deliver. An example - we had new windows, doors and conservatory windows fitted, not by a Greek, but what seemed a hard working Romanian.

  We were pleased with the results, even told friends. Any small problem call and I shall be there to fix. Good claims, in reality - rubbish. At first small problems he did fix, but when one window seems to be falling off the frame, we waited and waited.

  Phone calls, promises of coming the next day, all failed. Weeks and then months went by, we could never open the window in case it fell out. This week called again, I will be there tomorrow night - Nothing. It was not as if we had not asked also for some fencing on the terrace to be made - more  money for him - Nothing again.

  In desperation we climbed up to see what was the problem, baffled by a single screw which seemed not to fit any hole, we persevered. Looked at other windows to see the construction and eventually found the solution after a great deal of stress.

  If he ever bothers to turn up he will find two angry people and he will leave knowing service is his reputation

Dancing in the streets

AT last we have traditional Music Nights back every Monday in the village. After tavern owners failed for two weeks to make up their minds and agree to pay, the nights have been re-established and the square in packed on Monday's

 This always has a knock-on effect as people come up for the first time, place themselves in one of the many tavernas, and realise that this is a pretty and hard working village. The square has trees along one side, a featured water-fountain the the middle and all the owners have made special efforts to upgraded their buildings for the new season.

  There have been changes to the format odf the dance troup as well as changes with the actual music, which is really traditionaol and not just fior tourists. We actually see some of the locals gravitating to the square, and some actually go out to dance.

  Hopefully as the season progresses every table will be full every Monday, although the island is still not as full as everybody likes, at least they can be fully entertained.  The nioghts should continue right through to September - October, however if the trend does contiunue the outcome for many establishments on the island will be dire.

Colourful Crete

THE village artists have been out and about in force for this season. Pano Hersonissos has never looked so spruce as the season gets underway with many of the restaurants having a make-over for the season. It really started in the winter-time when one of the oldest kafenion’s Costas started by having new stonework installed inside, followed by a new corner fire and then new kitchens on the ground floor and a circular stairway to connect it. He followed by with new tables and painted the chairs creams and browns, really standing out from the crowd.
  This must have stunned some of the others as they picked up on what was happening. One, called Konaki was finally taken back from two Dutchmen, and, quite rightly is back as a Greek outlet instead of the european offerings before, and they spent a great deal of time and money on ripping out all the bad and installing new kitchens, painting all the chairs for outside as well as new tables.
  Further around the square the souvlaki establishment went to town with the outside newly painted and some excellent representations of his food hand painted on the walls. But the prize for all the top effort goes to Taverna Margo.
  It has been transported into a calm oasis of green chairs and tables, all hand painted. A superb new sign topped off by a new menu, all from fresh meats and fish (unlike some others in the square)  from an owner and his wife trying hard to make a success in a very competetive industry.

Another day - another monastery

WE are still able to find new places to visit, even after nine years on the island. Today it was to Kapsa's Monastery, and a big hike up the steep hill, but worth it.

  The Monastery of Kapsa is located 40 km from the town of Sitia at the exit of the Pervolakia Gorge built against the steep rocks overlooking the Libyan sea. The exact time of the foundation of the monastery is still unknown, while some believe that it was in the 15th century. Until 1841 there were only a small chapel dedicated to the Saint John the Baptist and a few cells.
   The glorious period of the monastery is connected with the activities of a crook of the time named "GERONTOYANNIS" (Yannis Vitsentzos). He had been using the monastery as a hideout when he believed that he could make money by curing people! It was rumoured that he had Divine visions and with the help of the God he was able to cure the pilgrims (only the really faithfull) of any illness.
   A large number of people started then visiting the monastery, bringing lots of gifts and Gerontoyannis spent a lot of them to built new cells and a second chapel dedicated this time to the Holly Trinity. A renowned craftsman of the time, Hatzi Minas, made the splendid wooden temples (1869) and Antonis Alexandridis made the beautiful icons (1870).
   Gerontoyannis died in 1874 at the age of 75. His grandson Iosif many years later came to the monastery to continue his grandfather's work. He added some new cells, brought running water to the monastery and cultivated the surrounding gardens. The monastery celebrates every year in August 29, name day of Saint John.

  We were with out seniors group, Kapi, and the day included good time in Ierapetra and them on to Viannos high in the hills. In total it was 12 hours on the road, glorious weather, and great company with a total of three buses.

Yes - No - Yes - Maybe!!!

IN OUR village, Pano Hersonissos, Crete, taverna owners are keeping their fingers crossed. Weather in the last few days has been uncertain, but, if the Gods are with them this Monday, they hope to have the first of the Music Nights, which is certainly needed to boost incomes.

   The start to the season has been a little quiet - not too bad, but it could certainly be better. People are drifting into the hotels and they were being given the information that last Monday there might be the traditional music and dancing - it was a little too uncertain weather wise so it was not staged, but they have high hopes for next Monday. 

  The weather forecast is looking good. Visitors who have been before will soon notice a colourful change to the square. Almost all of the establishments have taken a great deal of care and time to update their look. One has even had all its tables and chairs hand painted with flowers and birds - a vast improvement from the usual brown/black options
  The music nights are very traditional, although it's well planned, the dancers are not on a stage but show their craft around he square, dodging the traffic which makes it way through the square, despite signs advising drivers to take the rout away from the square, tourists accept this but the Greeks have a habit of failing to notice the traffic signs!.

Dinosaurs roar into Crete

IF you don't know your T-Rex dinosaur from a Raptorex or a Dicertops from a Diploducus then a new exhibition in Crete is the place for you.

  Dinosauria opened this week through to October/November on the Greek Island of Crete, and brings together a well balanced exhibition that will thrill children of all ages and inform and delight adults at the same time. 

  Situated at the National Exhibition Centre at Gouves, Heraklion near to the CretAquarium and spread over 2,500 square feet of space it is an educational exhibit that will take you back to the heart of the prehistoric period.

  However you have to be prepared for ther sheer size of the animals on display, with clever work to re-create the past. All the signage is thoughtfully displaced in four languages

 The life size exhibts move and roar their sounds in a realistic manner. You will certainly be surprised by the actual size of the beasts. We have all seen then depicted on television screen as well as in the movies, but nothing prepares you for reality.

  The exhition cleverly uses sensors so the models all start to move as you approach them, and the staff are very informative and helpful making the whole experience memorable for all the right reasons.

  There is  a 5D cinema experience, the first in Greece to complete the well thought out show, as well as a large car-park, refreshments and souvenirs making it al all-round educational and entertaining experience.

  The exhibition is open daily from 9am through to 8.pm. Admission is €8.50 for adults €6.50 for children, under fours are free. Group admission is €5

.

Now that's unusual!

DESPITE the official clamp down on smoking, which seems to be totally igmored in every taverna and pratically every eating establishment we have been in since the ban was introduced, here is something totally unexpected from a recent report.

  Up until a short while ago, Skotino in the prefecture of Heraklion here on Crete was known mainly for the cave that lent its name to the village, yet recently people have been talking about it for an entirely different reason following a report in local media which revealed that none of the village’s 70 residents smokes, making Skotino something of an exception in Greece.
  However, the residents did not decide to give up smoking as a result of the country’s anti-smoking campaign launched a few years back, as abstinence from tobacco in the village, according to the report, dates back at least 20 years. The “habit” of not smoking has since spread from one generation to the next, with the grandchildren of the oldest residents, now adults themselves, stating that they are all nonsmokers. What’s more, as a result of clean lungs, unpolluted air and the famous Cretan diet, the residents of Skotino tend to live to a ripe old age.
  Skotino is an oddity in Greece, a country where a smoking ban for certain areas introduced a few years ago has been systematically flouted by individuals and businesses alike. Maybe, though, Skotino shows us that something is slowly changing in the Greek psyche.

There is always time for a party!!

AS SURE as night follows day you can be certain that going out with a group of Greeks will end in a party of one kind. It was just that yesterday with a trip towards the southern shores of Crete with a excursion organised by a cultural/church group from the village.

  The signs were there as soon as the coach pulled up to meet us in Pano Hersonissos, when we spotted one of the party carrying an accordion.

  First stop was to the new Amazonas Animal Park just outside Neapoli. Set high in the hills above the town with stunning views, it's mainly a sanctuary for exotic birds. It's well laid out on steep paths with well presented cages for parrots and macaws. It's not really animals, although there are goats and a donkey, and they need to widen their horizons to a greater audience.

  Ierapetra was new call sitting the the sun to taken in the delights of a beach side coffee and the fortress, before Miros a pretty village on the coast and eventually a splendid and cheap lunch high in the hills of Pano Symi before setting off for the area around Viannos, scenes of much war activity and eventually back to the village.

  Lunch was where the party was. We had already had music and signing on the coach, but, as soon as lunch was under way out came the accordion again, more signing and then group dancing, it was a splendid way to spend the afternoon.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     
 

Anyone for cake or fish or animals?

VILLAGE life can be fun, especially when things are unexpected. Over the years we have been here we have witnessed many changes, but one thing is remarkable as a village, and that is the variety of goods and items that are brought here for sale, almost certainly a throw-back to life in Greek villages many years ago.

  We have grown accustomed to the cheeseman, the fishman, the family who come around with a van jam packed with household items and the handcart laden with clothing, as well as chickens and rabbits.

  Today there was something totally new, and perhaps a reflection on the financial situation in the country. People are looking for new ways to generate income, and we were stopped in our tracks by two women holding large aluminium cases in which were cakes and other sticky goodness to tempt the palate. They included balaclava (layers of phylo pastry packed with nuts and honey), as well as other traditional pastries, including the custard pie so popular here. There was too much for us we explained, and the women moved off to try their luck in the tavernas, and even the bakeries!!

  They eventually got back into their car and drove off, having made several sales,, making way for the fish trucks from the harbour and then individuals selling anything from DVD's to socks and even jackets. Never a dull moment,

On your marks - get set

IF HARD work means a successful tourist season, then the owners of the establishments in our square deserve a good time.

  The first flurry of tourists have started to trickle into the village and they will see than while three tavernas are up and running, the others are not far behind in their efforts to have everything ready for the season.

  One building has been successfully turned around from the Dutch couple who thought it a good idea to go for the Dutch market - in a really Greek village! That was never going to be a success, the owners are now a Greek family and they have been tearing out the old and replacing it with new kitchens and setting up lighting and painting a decorating.

   One other taverna has had a new rood and interior and all the others have been refreshed. It's also been good to see the two kafeneion's also working their magic in preparation for the tourists - we hope that their efforts will be rewarded with a good season.

When natural history is alive.

SPEAK to most people about visiting a Natural History Museum and their eyes will glaze over as they remember perhaps an earlier school trip. However the new breed of museums are far from dusty, fusty places and the Natural History Museum of Crete, on the coast road oiut of Heraklion delves into the past and bring the visitor right up to date.

  The Museum of Crete is a department of the Faculty of Science of the University of Crete (UoC). 

NHMC pursues interest in:

 a. Basic and applied research for the protection of the natural environment (geodiversity, biodiversity, endemic and rare forms of life) of Greece and Eastern Mediterranean area all contained in some excellent exhibits on three floors.

b. Management and conservation of the natural environment, geological heritage and ecosystems. NHMC is the scientific advisor of the European and Global UNESCO nominated Psiloritis geopark. NHMC has complete databases on the Cretan and Aegean natural environment and a rich digital and printed photo archive.

c. Development of botanical, zoological, geological and paleontological collections.

d. Public awareness and sensitiveness, school education and lifelong learning on environmental issues (interactive programs and workshops for schools, children, youth, and families and training seminars, conferences and lectures for general public). 

  Basically it's a real working museum that is certainly worth the effort to get to see. There is a large car park opposite rather than street parking and expect a visit to last more than an hour - especially if you have children. Every exhibit, with the exception of the Living area, is without glass and the displays really come to life because of this.

     Children will love the Earthquake simulator and will have to hold on tight as they feel the earth move, they will be well shaken before going off to see the Living area exhibits. A cafe will be coming soon and with friendly and informative staff it was a really pleasurable visit.

Marmite - Love it or hate it!

ALTHOUGH we have now been on the island for almost nine years, there are still some elements of life in the UK that we miss, mainly in the food market. There are certain items which, until recently, have been impossible to source locally.

  However in recent years more items are now coming to the market, it's still not like walking into an English supermarket, but delights such as Brown Sauce, Ribena, Marmite and even English tea are appearing on the shelves.

  There is now a English Warehouse in Agios Nicholoas less than 20 minutes from us, which as the name suggests, specialises in all things English, and they have all the delights including Hot-X buns, English cheese, Easter Eggs and even English bread, although we are more than happy with the Greek offerings from our bakery in the village.

  As the warehouse also have a web-site and links through Facebook, we can keep in touch for when certain items are brought in, and we have a shopping trip, not just to them but also to Lidl which is just another 400 metres away,

Apokories - it's all good clean fun!

APOKORIES  is three weeks before Lent, and on the first day of Lent there is Clean Monday (Kathari Deftera)- putting it simply another reason to have food and celebrate. The three organisations who have arranged this here in the village in the past had not enough money and had not raised money for this event, which is a great shame, so it was not held.

   For us the answer was simple - a short ride to the seaside village of Sissi, which was the first area that we came to on holiday many years ago.

  Here the tradition is alive and very well, it matters not who or where you are from you can enjoy the hospitality of the village and of the region - completely free. There is music down by the harbour front as well, so this year we went with some English friends, and settled by the waters edge. The event is very well organised and you go to the food area, grab a tray and your plates are filled. There is Fassouladia, a hot bean soup served with traditional flatbread. The plates were then filled with Fava (mashed split beans) Taramosalata (Fish roes), olives, traditional vegtables and then halva (sweet sesame) further down the line you take wine, beers, softdrinks and water and everything was free.

  Music, BBQ foods and then Loukomades (sweet dough) deep fried and served with honey were placed on every table, even if the people there were up dancing to the excellent music.

  

A new beginning

NEIGHBOURS Dimitri and Monica kindly invited us to the baptism of their son, also called Dimitri, another great experience. First to our local church for the official ceremony. Here the Godmother takes on special meanings and plays a great part of the ceremony. The child is bathed in the font into which is placed water and blessed olive oil. 

  Only when this is done is he dressed in special clothes for the day. It was all going well until the water part, and the youngster made sure that everybody when he was not too happy!! After all this tradition it was off to a local taverna, where guests were well fed and watered as they say. Most of the group invited were Romanians, so the music and dancing were different. Every guest at the church were handed little mementos, the family choosing a naval theme for the whole event. At the reception were specially made table decorations in the form of boats and there were special pins for everybody to wear.

  We thought as we left late that was the end of the events, but the next day the family called us when  it is traditional for the child to be bathed by the Godmother. Further food came out for all there, and even a BBQ later in the afternoon, as further friends called to add their best wishes,

Another day in the mountains

WE obtain a great deal of joy from going out on excursions with our Senior Citizens group (KAPI) Although we generally know where we are going, there are always surprises along the way. The trip this week was to Apladiana, high in the mountains, but with a coffee stop at one of our favourite villages, Fodele, birthplace of painter El Greco.
  Turning off the main highway it was straight into twisting turning rods, further and further upwards, before we eventually arrived at the taverna. We could simply not find it ourselves, no signs, no houses and no other signs of life, although it could comfortably seat 300 or even more.
   We were promised music in the form of a trio who played through the meal into late afternoon, but nothing stopped for the meal, which included rice pilaff  and lamb - then pork from the rotating grill and potatoes.
  The dancing went on through the afternoon, we went off to see the ostriches they bred, hence the feather in Pat's hair on our return.

Time for a traditional celebration!!

IT seems only a matter of weeks since the last celebration, but today was the start of Apokaries (Carnival) time in Greece, and of course there was a celebration with food and, wine and dancing - but at 10.00am!
Our senior citizens organisation (KAPI) informed us of the event in their headquarters in Hersonissoss, and off we went, not really knowing what to expect. On arrival we could smell the souvlaki (meat on wooden sticks) being cooked, and there was enough for all and a few more. Salad, bread and wine followed by cakes, and then the music and dancing started.
 It seemed to us that anybody passing could join in, which they did and it was another example of socialising and hospitality, as friends re-united. Now there are celebrations and festivities throughout the country. Apokaries is three weeks before Lent, and on the first day of Lent their is Clean Monday (Kathari Deftera) Hopefully there will be further celebrations in the village, which was not help for financial reasons last year, if it is still not happening we shall go down the coast a short ride to Sissi, which always has the event.
On this date families gather at the beach to fly kites and prepare for the forthcoming Easter period.
We have also been signed up for a day-trip next week to an area called Apladiana towards the eastern side of the island. Just to make sure there is food included in our trip - oh and some music!!

Anything you need?

LIVING in Greece over the last couple of years has certainly changed. We live in a traditional village where the traditions are still maintained, however things always change.

  When we first arrived it was usual to see a  van stop and sell fresh fish every day. Nowadays because of the financial situation we have two or even three come around. Then it was not unusual to find another van packed with household items of pots and pans. These days it's a bigger van, and it really is like stepping into a mobile shop.

  What has really changed are the continual flow of individuals who come around with a couple of carrier bags, from which they will pull perhaps socks or paper tissues, or even cans of fruit from a supermarket, but for a few cents more of course.. Another comes around with DVD's and CD disks, and of course there are the vans with local cheeses always happy for you to have a taste. Now we have people who walk aroiund with a young child in tow, visiting every shop or taverna for a hand-out, usually money or even they will be given bread or cakes.

  In the bigger towns and city of Heraklion almost every main junction there will be people to wash the windscreen or they come of the window with plastic cup in hand for change. Even at the supermarkets, they will be there, clutching a child or offering to take the trolley back for you, claiming the money for saving you the trouble!

Try a little bartering!

THERE  is growing a new movement here in Greece - bartering, Yes the very same method used for centuries by people with little or no money. If you have a service or a trade why not offer them in exchange for something that you need. More and more people are harking back to older days a dozen eggs for say some cheese or bread. Or a service for a car in exchange for somethinbg for the house - it's nothing new but in parts of Greece it's making a comeback due to the financial situation.

  We hear also of one Greek who now makes his living by collecting scrap metal, something that has been tackled mainly by immigrants as Greeks  who thought it was beneath them. Now he makes a steady income after being made redundant from his job of 25 plus years. There is a ready market for the service he provides and he puts food on the table.

You cannot beat the markets!

MARKETS  have always been the source of good value. Freshest possible fruit and vegetables and bargains galore. We have always loved markets, in any country we have visited over the years, and now, in Crete we have a market locally every day of the week.

  In Heraklion there are main ones of Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturday. They are the same, but not the same, they just differ mainly in size. There are always variations, and today it was time for fruit and vegetables and then a really excellent bargain. A leather bomber jacket, just the right size and style needed for just 20 euros, about 17 pounds. It was perfect, not sure where they come from but delighted with the find. The last time a shop in Heraklion was checked out, the best price was 250 euros - some difference!

What a Catastrophy!!!

Dusty our rescued cat has certainly used up at least one of his nine lives this week. He came home in the morning and made straight for the box that he sleeps in after a night out - nothing new about that, other than not going to his food. Two hours later it was a different story.

He was miaowing as loud as possible, and would not let us anywhere near him. Gradually his front leg started to swell and he was still creating a real racket - time for the vet.

  The drive to Heraklion was loud from the back seat as we made our way to the vet. When we got there we explained what we though it was. By now his leg was lifted up in obvious pain. The vet went to check and was confronted by a very angry cat. A sedative injection said the vet. he will be asleep in ten minutes - wrong - 25 minutes later he was still hissing at the vet as she examined the leg and revealed a near three inch long tear in the skin, the result of fighting. The fur was cut away dressed and antibiotic pills dispensed and we were off back home. The swelling has gone down but he has been kept inside for the time being.

Feed me, feed me!

WE have always admired the Greek hospitality, but even we were surprised the other day during an excursion to the southern area around Mires. There were three coaches packed for the trip, mainly to go to three local monasteries. The first was in the area called Plora, although our coach driver decided he knew a better route, and in fact ended up arriving 30 minutes after the other two.

  By the time we did get to this little monastery, who were celebrating their name day, the building was packed and there must have been around 100 more outside. Although it was a bright day it was a little chilly in the wind, and many, including us, we offered a seat inside where there was free coffee along with honey biscuits, fruit, nuts and sweets and holy bread in abundance. 

  As the ceremony in the church finished we moved to the exit where we all stopped and were handed large plastic bowls full of rice pilaf and a large piece of lamb, along with a bread roll and another drink. We can never understand how they can cater on such a scale, but more so how many to cater for, there is always enough. It was then to Mires for coffee before the larger monastery at Kalyviana, where there was almost biscuits for all along with drink. The hospitality also continued on the coach where no one, but two large boxes of chocolate cake and biscuits came around, together with nuts and Raki, the national firewater.