THE END OF SIFIS THE CROCODILE

SIFIS the crocodile that had taken up residence in a reservoir near Rethymno in Crete has sadly been found dead.

  The crocodile who is thought to have once been a pet that had been released when he grew too large, was first spotted last summer by somewhat dumbfounded municipal workers. He rapidly became a local celebrity drawing tourists and locals alike eager to catch a glimpse of the reptile.

  While the cause of his death remains unknown it is considered likely that the reptile failed to survive the Cretan winter which this year was particularly harsh.

  After he was first sighted, a committee was established to monitor and capture Sifis and rehome him in a zoo. However the crocodile evaded all of the traps set for him.

  Since mid-February those involved in the effort had lost track of Sifis. Efforts were made to track him over the past month but hopes that he had found some form of shelter were dashed when Sifis’s lifeless body was spotted floating in the lake.

  A team including researchers from the Museum of Natural history and the herpetologist Petros Limberakis will attempt to recover the body and examine it to determine Sifis’s cause of death.  The examination will also answer other questions about the crocodile that have perplexed experts since he was first spotted in the reservoir.

COME ON - LET'S PARTY

Life is anything but boring here in Crete, there always seems to be one party or another, and February is now the time for the fesitval season..

  It's the party period of the year in the build up to Easter, the main religious time. We have got used to events on birthdays, but also not to be confused are names days. There are saints days and of course, two big national celebrations in March and October. But February is the time for Apokries.

  Apokries, is the Greek version the worldwide known as “masquerade partying festival,”  The festivities in Greece have their origins in ancient religious traditions that honored Dionysus, the god of wine and joy and celebrated the end of the winter season. In relation to the Greek Orthodox Church Apokries, is celebrated three weeks before Easter, and visitors will see thousands of costumes, parades, masquerades, and dancing people. 

  The event is most noteworthy in the carnival capital, Patras, in the Peloponese, and the Rethymnon Carnival is coming up the radar with each passing year. okries, is the Greek version the worldwide known as “masquerade partying festival,” carnival. 

   The festivities in Greece have their origins in ancient religious traditions that honored Dionysus, the god of wine and joy and celebrated the end of the winter season. In relation to the Greek Orthodox Church Apokries, is celebrated three weeks before Easter, 

  All over the island and the mainland  visitors will see thousands of costumes, parades, masquerades, and dancing people. The event is most noteworthy in the carnival capital, Patras, in the Peloponese, but the one in Rethymnon, here is coming up the radar with each passing year. 

  But it is not just the big cities, far from it. Our first one of the yuear came the other day, when our senior citizen group KAPI held their own party. Hundred came to feast, dance and celebrate in style. The food may have been served, but withg music live, they were up to dance and dance.

  Costumes were not the order of the day, but, of course some did dress up. Now we have other parties to attend to, our local onbe is at Agriana, but there are events annually also in Malia, Heraklion and any other opportunity that offers itself. 

Thank you - see you next season / Σας ευχαριστώ - θα δούμε την επόμενη σεζόν!

WE REACHED the end of the traditional Cretan dance and music nights in our village square. Tonight was the last of the season and will return (hopefully) next May/June
   The dancers had a great season, not one night had to be cancelled through bad weather and each event resulted in a packed village square.
  It's good for the local tavernas of course and actually as it features traditional music and dancing gives the tourists a touch of real Crete, especially those who take full inclusive holidays.
  Once again the turn out, remembering that the event is never advertised, was excellent, and the dancers seemed to have enjoyed their long season., Most of them have day jobs, and the dancing is fast and furious - see you next May/June

New adventures to the west

DESPITE being on the island for almost 11 years there are so many places we have never visited, and we do try! This week was an opportunity to explore new ground to the west and south, thanks to a trip organised by our senior citizens group KAPI.
  So it was an early start to take in Kourna Lake, which we had been to previously and then Reythmno before turning south to Paleochora.
  Situated on a peninsular, 74 kms south of Chania it is a small town, surround by the Lybian sea. Pretty with nice beaches and plent of attractions. It's famous for it's small bays, tourism and the cultivation of olive oil and tomatoes.
  Refreshed by a good overnight sleep in an excellent  beach side hotel it was time to head to the Samaria Gorge. It is a national park, rich in flora and fauna, famous as a 16 kms walk. Not an idea walk as it takes more than five hours, so it was a look and time for photographs of the rugged terrain. Visitors usually arrive at the village of Omalos at an altitude of 1,250m and then end their walk in the village of Agia Roumeli. Having arrived usually by bus, the walkers usually take the ferry back to Paleochora, tired and refreshed at the same time.
  Heading inland it was then time for  lunch at Theriso, famous for the starting point for the uprising years before, time in Chania and then to Akrotiri overlooking Souda Bay.
  There was just enough time to squeeze in a visit to Georgopolis for some of their famous wood oven bread,, a local church and then home - phew!! 

It's much too much

TOWARDS the end of last year we met Americans Duane and Cheryl, who moved into the village, about 200 metres from our house.  Since then we have become good friends, and they are good company.
  We have a taverna in a nearby village called Kokkini Hani where we sometimes go. Phyllis, Scottish co-owner is a real laugh, excellent sense of humour, and business partner Ganni is a really good Greek chef.  During the year they have what they term “buffet nights” In reality a group of people are invited, usually 20 or so, many are regulars, including us.
  The building is small and very traditional, in fact it sits on the edge of a car-park, is hardly advertised, and is not really easy to find.
  We mentioned this to the Americans who were keen to experience it for themselves, so along they came. They were very surprised by the quality and the quantity of the food,. On this night we had: Greek salad, tzaziki, fava, two kinds of pork, two kinds of chicken, fried fish, potato salad, sausages in sauce, two kinds of liver and a beef dish. Much of the produce comes from Gannis’ own animals or from his vegetable plot, it’s always fresh and there is a vast amount of food, no matter the numbers. The biggest surprise however comes at the end of the night, when the cost is €10 a head, about £8!!!
  Of course there is Raki to drink and fruits afterwards, and you cannot leave feeling hungry. The Americans have already demanded to be informed when the next one of held.
  For us it was also an opportunity to catch up with a Dutch family, who have been coming to Crete for more that 20 years. We keep in touch by e-mail, but it was extra nice to catch up personally.

Good day for a dip!!!

TODAY, January 6th is Epiphany throughout all of Greece. After the local church ceremony it is tradition that the priest will go to the local harbour and blesses the waters and then throws the sacred cross into the waters, where young men challenge for the collection, a sign of good luck.
   There were hundreds gathered at Hersonissos harbour to celebrate the day, blessed with warm winter sunshine, but, we are told the water was still very cold as 12 brave souls vied for the wooden cross pitched into the sea by the priest from the brow on a boat.

  We go along, meet friends there, and enjoy the activities, and stay on for coffee and a chat, but the ceremony is still to be admired as they retain their traditions. 
   Epiphany is an important religious celebration for all Greeks and Orthodox Christians. The day on which Jesus was baptized symbolizes the regeneration of man and that is why Epiphany used to be celebrated, until the mid-4th century, as New Year’s Day. Epiphany, or Fota as this celebration is otherwise called in Greece, is associated with the removal of evil spirits, human fertility and land fertility.
 It is also considered that the celebration of Epiphany brings catharsis. The waters are sanctified and evil is driven out of them. During earlier centuries, villagers considered this particular day as the biggest celebration of the year when they would wear their new clothes in order for them to be sanctified!
  There was also a myth that on the eve of Epiphany, the heavens opened and people could get anything they requested.

A little bit of England!

WHEN we arrived here in Crete nearly ten years ago, it was almost impossible to buy many of the creature comforts that we could easily pick up in our UK supermarkets. We are not talking shopping trollies of food, but the few items that we miss from the UK.

  Gradually over the years as more and more ex-Pats have come to the island that changed a little. Take brown sauce as an example. You can go into any Greek supermarket and the range of tomato sauce products is vast but no brown sauce (vital for fried eggs or bacon sandwiches). It was impossible also to obtain castor sugar and golden syrup, not everyday requirements, but sometimes essential, after all you cannot make a golden sponge with honey instead of syrup! We won't talk about Marmite of course.

  Well, gradually over the years the demand on friends and family coming to the island has gradually diminished, now, virtually everything is possible, thanks to the opening of various English shops on the island.

  The first for us was the English Warehouse in Agios Nikoloaus, a trip of 40 minutes each way. Run by an English lady and her Greek husband, it really came into its own around Christmas with top cheeses, frozen goods and even cards and crackers.

  This year another shop has opened about 10 minutes away, at Stalis. Delightful Vicky Light  and her Greek boyfriend Nondas run this shop, small but packed with more than 300 ambient lines, plus an ever expanding frozen goods, all those essentials much needed. We also know of at least one other English shop, to the east at Chania, too far for us of course. Stalis is the shop by choice, they would even deliver is needed, we get an update of their range of goods, as well as their frozen produce list. They deserve every success for their enterprise, it took a great deal of planning and hard work, which from our view is paying dividends.
  Their first Christmas was a surprise to them, they had nothing to judge the situation by, but learned a great deal, making sure that planning for the big week would be done earlier next time. Their customers of course realise the value of such a shop, and together with personal service are sure to return time after time. 
  Now both local (to us) shops have increased their ranges, importing direct from the UK a wider and wider range of frozen foods. We love Greek food, cooked oiur way also, but there are also little treats that make life that little more special.
  A toasted tea-cake for example in the afternoon. Real English pork pies with that crisply outside housing a delightful pork and jelly inside, nothing in Greece can offer that, although there have been some who have tried  without real success.
  Of course the shops really are for those living here, but on the influx of tourists they get to hear of the shops and load up with items for self catering, which is certainly better than the fully inclusive hotels that ties visitors to their hotels - but that's another story.

Tough times

THE end of the tourist season is almost here on the island, and businesses will be assessing what has been a very tough season for many.
  In our village many did not even manage to finish the season, while others report a better than expected season. Already some have actually closed down for the season, one taverna is always the last to open, but the first to close. Our friends Nico and Anna run Margo
taverna, which is certainly the prettiest in the village, and right to the end have enjoyed a good summer, however, one taverna which returned to Greek ownership this season actually closed down in the middle of the season - they simply could not attract business, some nights only serving two or three customers  while employing more than that in staff.
  Elsewhere the picture has been much the same, what needs to be addressed during the winter months is what is to be done for 2014. It will take a brave person to forecast that, but certainly many will fall.

A genuine Kri Kri family

ANY day out with our senior group KAPI usually means a short visit to a church ior monastery, but this week was a little different, we were actually able to see Kri Kri. Kri-Kri is the common name of the Cretan feral goat (Capra aegagrus ssp. cretica) which is the largest wild mammal on the island. Its grandeur, its bravery, its ability to observe without being noticed, its speed and its impressive horns are the features that were loved by the locals and made it a symbol of Crete and the untamed Cretan spirit.

 It lives mainly on the White Mountains and its local name is "Agrimi" (GR: Αγρίμι = the wild one) for the male and "Sanada" (GR: Σανάδα) for the female. Recent years, young kri-kris have approached the old village of Samaria, where they are fed by the park rangers and can be seen by the visitors. Kri-kris and goats are close genetically, as the hybridization that exists between them show. Kri-kri's size however is a good deal larger than that of a goat. The young kid was skittish of course, but was lured to the fence with some grass for a photo chance.

We saw them in a taverna high up in the hills during a  day trip to the west of the island, when the staff pointed them out to us, as they are rather special. They had a whole family in a perfect setting. We had seen images of them and even stuffed ones in the natural history museum, but it was nice to see them up close and personal.

  Our day out included the village of Vrisses, where they sell their famous yoghurt and then to Georgeopoulis, famous for their traditional bread. Needless to say we came home with bags of both, whoever the two coachload of KAPI members actually cleared the bakery out, which was some going as they produce over 1,000 loaves every day.  Some of the locals had to make do with a wait, only 15 minutes to get to the next batch.

Hitting the right notes

THERE is one thing about living in a traditional Crete village - there is always something of interest happening.
  During the summer months in particular there are a variety of events, from cultural to things for the children, and first up 
it was an open air concert by the local Cultural Choir. Staged in the small platia behind the old church, chairs were laid out and the well rehearsed choir performed for over an hour. They featured popular Greek music mainly and had the local audience thrilled by their good voices.
  There are a great number of events to attend, all free, during the summer months. The local council produce a small brochure listing all the upcoming events. We shall have a translation done to make sure we will not miss out during the summer.

Dancing in the streets

AT last we have traditional Music Nights back every Monday in the village. After tavern owners failed for two weeks to make up their minds and agree to pay, the nights have been re-established and the square in packed on Monday's

 This always has a knock-on effect as people come up for the first time, place themselves in one of the many tavernas, and realise that this is a pretty and hard working village. The square has trees along one side, a featured water-fountain the the middle and all the owners have made special efforts to upgraded their buildings for the new season.

  There have been changes to the format odf the dance troup as well as changes with the actual music, which is really traditionaol and not just fior tourists. We actually see some of the locals gravitating to the square, and some actually go out to dance.

  Hopefully as the season progresses every table will be full every Monday, although the island is still not as full as everybody likes, at least they can be fully entertained.  The nioghts should continue right through to September - October, however if the trend does contiunue the outcome for many establishments on the island will be dire.

Colourful Crete

THE village artists have been out and about in force for this season. Pano Hersonissos has never looked so spruce as the season gets underway with many of the restaurants having a make-over for the season. It really started in the winter-time when one of the oldest kafenion’s Costas started by having new stonework installed inside, followed by a new corner fire and then new kitchens on the ground floor and a circular stairway to connect it. He followed by with new tables and painted the chairs creams and browns, really standing out from the crowd.
  This must have stunned some of the others as they picked up on what was happening. One, called Konaki was finally taken back from two Dutchmen, and, quite rightly is back as a Greek outlet instead of the european offerings before, and they spent a great deal of time and money on ripping out all the bad and installing new kitchens, painting all the chairs for outside as well as new tables.
  Further around the square the souvlaki establishment went to town with the outside newly painted and some excellent representations of his food hand painted on the walls. But the prize for all the top effort goes to Taverna Margo.
  It has been transported into a calm oasis of green chairs and tables, all hand painted. A superb new sign topped off by a new menu, all from fresh meats and fish (unlike some others in the square)  from an owner and his wife trying hard to make a success in a very competetive industry.

Another day - another monastery

WE are still able to find new places to visit, even after nine years on the island. Today it was to Kapsa's Monastery, and a big hike up the steep hill, but worth it.

  The Monastery of Kapsa is located 40 km from the town of Sitia at the exit of the Pervolakia Gorge built against the steep rocks overlooking the Libyan sea. The exact time of the foundation of the monastery is still unknown, while some believe that it was in the 15th century. Until 1841 there were only a small chapel dedicated to the Saint John the Baptist and a few cells.
   The glorious period of the monastery is connected with the activities of a crook of the time named "GERONTOYANNIS" (Yannis Vitsentzos). He had been using the monastery as a hideout when he believed that he could make money by curing people! It was rumoured that he had Divine visions and with the help of the God he was able to cure the pilgrims (only the really faithfull) of any illness.
   A large number of people started then visiting the monastery, bringing lots of gifts and Gerontoyannis spent a lot of them to built new cells and a second chapel dedicated this time to the Holly Trinity. A renowned craftsman of the time, Hatzi Minas, made the splendid wooden temples (1869) and Antonis Alexandridis made the beautiful icons (1870).
   Gerontoyannis died in 1874 at the age of 75. His grandson Iosif many years later came to the monastery to continue his grandfather's work. He added some new cells, brought running water to the monastery and cultivated the surrounding gardens. The monastery celebrates every year in August 29, name day of Saint John.

  We were with out seniors group, Kapi, and the day included good time in Ierapetra and them on to Viannos high in the hills. In total it was 12 hours on the road, glorious weather, and great company with a total of three buses.

Now that's unusual!

DESPITE the official clamp down on smoking, which seems to be totally igmored in every taverna and pratically every eating establishment we have been in since the ban was introduced, here is something totally unexpected from a recent report.

  Up until a short while ago, Skotino in the prefecture of Heraklion here on Crete was known mainly for the cave that lent its name to the village, yet recently people have been talking about it for an entirely different reason following a report in local media which revealed that none of the village’s 70 residents smokes, making Skotino something of an exception in Greece.
  However, the residents did not decide to give up smoking as a result of the country’s anti-smoking campaign launched a few years back, as abstinence from tobacco in the village, according to the report, dates back at least 20 years. The “habit” of not smoking has since spread from one generation to the next, with the grandchildren of the oldest residents, now adults themselves, stating that they are all nonsmokers. What’s more, as a result of clean lungs, unpolluted air and the famous Cretan diet, the residents of Skotino tend to live to a ripe old age.
  Skotino is an oddity in Greece, a country where a smoking ban for certain areas introduced a few years ago has been systematically flouted by individuals and businesses alike. Maybe, though, Skotino shows us that something is slowly changing in the Greek psyche.

Best donuts - every year!!

There is always something happening with our KAPI, social group here in Hersonissos, Crete. Today it was national Loukoumades (Donuts) Day and the ladies of the group were in the offices early with their flour, yeast and honey to set about making them.
  These delicious deep fried yeast balls are crisp on the outside and simply soft in the middle. Just to make them even more acceptable they drizzle them a honey/water mixture and then dust them with roasted nuts.
  Anybody passing through the area had to chance to sample them, free of charge and there were plenty of takers for this simple but delightful offering.
  It's a simple way of making sure that the communites stay in touch and nobody can resist having a plateful - or even more given the chance. (Pictured: Ladies from the KAPI prepare more plates)

APOLOGIES ALL ROUND

Robin & Pat Williams

FIRST  we must say thank you to the regular followers of this blog, we now have more than 15,000 viewings in more than 86 countries which is fantastic.

  As some of the posts and photographs pages were getting a little old we have taken them off. Some have been refreshed and more will follow to replace them. Again thanks to you all, have a good festive season, and keep on reading our news and views from Crete and from Greece.

Another big investment for Crete

THINGS must be picking up in the Greek economy, despite recent problems, when the Minoan Group announced that they are planning a new leisure investment of 250m Euros, and it will centre around the area of Lasithi, and by this we mean near to the proposed new airport.

  Minoan Group Plc’s operations in Greece currently centre on the development and subsequent operation of what they plan to be a new landmark for tourism in Greece. The project will include a number of small to medium sized hotels of extremely high standards, both in terms of the service offered and environmental credentials.

  It is the Group’s intention that the development and operation of the Project will be undertaken with financial and other partners of substance. These partners will include Hotel Operators who are capable of enhancing the Group’s vision of a very high quality, environmentally impeccable tourist destination with long term sustainability built in to the design and operating procedures.

  The site for the Project is the Cavo Sidero peninsula, a spectacular location extending into the Mediterranean from the North Eastern coast of Crete in the prefecture of Lasithi. The site, in the locality of Itanos, will be held on a long lease granted by the Ecclesiastical Foundation, Panagia Akrotiriani and comprises 25,000 stremmata (over 6,000 acres). It has 28 kilometres of coastline, numerous secluded bays and inlets as well as an interior with rolling hills where herbs such as thyme and marjoram are part of the natural vegetation.

  With a built footprint of less than 0.5% of the site the Project aims to preserve the landscape and leave more than 90% in its natural state and create conditions for the regeneration of vegetation.

  The history of Itanos began 5.000 years ago and the broader area is rich in archeological sites. These include ancient palaces and towns, including the partially submerged ruins of Itanos itself. Together with old tales and traditions they form a unique cultural heritage. .

In the North East of the area they have designed a project to blend in with and complement the landscape. It will be a new destination for Crete and Greece.

   The construction cost of the new project is estimated over 250 m. Euro and will be undertaken through one or more Joint Ventures with appropriate partners.

We take to the hills

QUESTION: What has 24 wheels and carries nearly 200 excitable Greeks? ANSWER: Four buses.

We have often tried to remember virtually the first trip around the island that we made with our Elderly persons group - the KAPI, which took in some glorious caves and stunning scenery. Well, this week we found out on our latest trip.

  The caves in fact were the Sfentoni caves of Zoniana, high up in the Psiloritis  mountain range. In the seven years since our first visit the authorities have really smarted up the place with coloured lights to enhance the viewing pleasure. We were collected by the super coach at 8.00am and later joined the other three from various areas around up. First it was to the historic Anogia village, not an easy task on roads originally made for donkey transport, and just wide enough for coaches to carefully pass by. A brief stop at a special museum at Potomianos where the history of the region is played out, but must say the waxwork models could do with a little updating!

  Of course a trip out with the KAPI would hardly be possible without a visit to some religious building, this time to the Monastery of Timios Stavros. Fantastic views and superb gardens, which surprisingly did not seem to interest the majority of the large group. Then it was the highlight - at least for many. Lunch!!

  Not an ordinary lunch of course. It was in the village of Throsia who specialise in cooking pork and lamb, over charcoal, either on a spit or just simply turned by hand. It's always cooked slowly and the result is juicy meat, we had been before and it was as good as previously.

  Finally we turned toward home, but noit without a short stop at another very traditional village, Fodele well know for it's connections with famous painter El Greco and specialising in macrame work, which the ladies of the village happily show you as they work with nimble fingers on intricate patters off the back of an old chair. It was nice to see that they are passing on their skills to the younger generation. In Fodele we have a friend who runs the Taverna  Domenico, who serve up local orange juice as well as specialties of the region, So it was good to catch up and share a drink before arriving back in Old Hersonissos.

Red Arrows back over Crete

FOLLOWING a two plane crash over the skies of Kastelli airfield in Crete back in March 2010, the Red Arrows acrobatic flying team are back in the area, and were in training, including being heard and seen over Heraklion today as we were shopping in the town.

  We saw them, first in formation, and then in what appeared to be a low level exercise, before they roared off. The team are currently based at  RAF Akrotiri on the island of Cyprus for nine weeks of intensive training.This deployment is called  Exercise SPRINGHAWK and it is a very important step in the team’s workup training in preparation for this year’s display season.

  There are some very important reasons for the Red Arrows to go to Cyprus and it will certainly be no holiday. The most important reason for this exercise is the guaranteed good weather which they just don’t get at their home-base of RAF Scampton in Lincolnshire. Also, the Akrotiri peninsula allows the pilots to practice over a large number of different types of display sites all with different characteristics. 

   The most popular display site that they use is called ‘The Cliffs’. It is flown over the sea and the flying conditions are always perfect with no turbulence (or in pilot speak ‘bumps’) for them to worry about. In contrast, ‘Golf’ dispersal is flown over part of the airfield and by lunchtime is very bumpy as the sun warms up the land creating convection. 

  Although the pilots don’t normally enjoy this site, it is extremely valuable flying and simulates a typical UK summer overland site on a breezy day. ‘The Wreck’ is another different site, again over-sea but it always has a strong on-crowd wind for the team to get used to. This type of wind is common during the summer and can be challenging to master. All these sites are within the RAF Akrotiri Sovereign Base Area and are literally, on the doorstep. This allows the pilots to rehearse three times every day, five days a week and gives them the opportunity to concentrate totally on the flying.